Extracts from the Newsletter of the Movimentolento

The Slow Movement - Newsletter n.47

Newsletter for those traveling without haste on foot and by bicycle

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ON THE ROAD BETWEEN SANTIAGO AND JERUSALEM, VIA ROMA
http://www.camminafrancigena.it/it/page/daSantiago/aRoma/

Useful information for modern pilgrims traveling slowly between
Camino de Santiago and the Via Francigena.

In the Middle Ages, Santiago, Rome and Jerusalem were the three major pilgrimage
destinations in Europe. Today you can repeat the experience of past travelers, and walk
between Santiago, Rome and Jerusalem, along the ancient routes. The paths of the
Middle Ages are often lost, or have "evolved" into large highways. In these cases alternative paths safer and more pleasant paths have been established.

We offer our channel dedicated to the Via Francigena
Www.camminafrancigena.it   http://www.camminafrancigena.it/it/

A) a small guide on the web, devoted primarily to modern travelers who do not disdain the use of technology to organize their paths, and that through the use of GPS and interactive maps available on the Web can rediscover old emotions.

The guide will be released in installments, each week. Please read the first two articles http://www.camminafrancigena.it/it/page/daSantiago/aRoma/

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News    http://www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/news/ 


** Basilicata Coast to Coast: GPS tracks online
http://www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/news/basilicata-coast-coast-line-le-tracce-gps/

Richard Carnovalini revisited version of "hiking" path the caravan of the film Basilicata Coast to Coast, are available GPS tracks of his way, for anyone who wants to discover an area
wonderful southern Italian.
http://www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/news/basilicata-coast-coast-line-le-tracce-gps/

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The itineraries

From St. Peter's to the old
http://www.viefrancigenedelsud.it/it/resource/statictrack/da-piazza-san-pietro-allappia-antica/

This spectacular route, walking and cycling, connects some of the most beautiful and famous in the world: Piazza S. Peter the Roman Forum, the Colosseum, the Appian Way. A crescendo of excitement interval from the discovery of less famous monuments and views. The route can be completed along the Via Appia, where pedestrians can take bus, or on to Castel Gandolfo
http://www.viefrancigenedelsud.it/it/resource/statictrack/dallappia-antica-castel-gandolfo/

View the presentation of the path
http://www.viefrancigenedelsud.it/it/resource/statictrack/da-piazza-san-pietro-allappia-antica/
and visit the site dedicated to the Francigena Way South
http://www.viefrancigenedelsud.it/it/

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Travelling slowly along the ancient streets
http://www.camminafrancigena.it/it/

Via Francigena: The problem of walking into Rome is being resolved


One of the most important problems of the walkway was made access to Rome: in fact the height of the orbital pilgrims were forced to walk for about 800 m on a busy stretch
Triumphal street without sidewalks. Thanks to teamwork Association Group of Twelve, Nature of Rome, the Municipality of XX Rome and the Lazio Region Department of Culture, it seems that finally is coming to a very interesting solution, which exceed the Ring Road on the Via Cassia, and the attraversarà dell'Insugherata beautiful green area.

Subscribe to "CamminaFrancigena", to keep you informed about the news of
great cultural itinerary!
http://www.facebook.com/camminafrancigena

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The Slow Movement in social networks

Join our Facebook community, join us and write about
Slow Movement of your Bulletin Board
comment.   http://www.facebook.com/cultura.del.viaggio

We provide all the lovers of the journey on foot and in
know a place where cycling and relate their experiences.

Become our friend on Twitter
http://twitter.com/#%21/movimentolento

Visit our website to read more news www.movimentolento.it,
articles and itineraries for those traveling slowly.
http://www.movimentolento.it/

The newsletter is edited by Federico Alberto Conte and Carli Giori,
in collaboration with the Association The Slow Movement

New Safer route into Rome and the link between Santiago, Roma and Jerusalem

From the VF Yahoo Forum:

One of the most important issues of via Francigena was the access that the pedestrian route to Rome: in fact the pilgrims were forced to walk for about 800 m on a busy stretch of via Trionfale without sidewalks.
Thanks to teamwork Association Gruppo dei Dodici, Roma Natura, the twentieth Municipality of Rome and the Lazio Region Department of Culture, it seems that finally it is coming to a very interesting solution, which will cross the Ring Highway on via Cassia, and will cross the beautiful green area of Insugherata before joining current path in the area of Monte Mario.
The route has already been changed even in the area of Monte Mario, and the latest version through the green area offering wonderful views of Rome, before coming to the classic viewpoint of Mount Joy, from where to admire the dome St. Peter's.
For route details of Insugherata you should read this article:
http://www.vignaclarablog.it/2012022018043/progetto-via-francigena-insugherata/
Now you can already walk on the new route, but during the weekend they close a gate, so please avoid saturday and sunday.
We are working on the maps, that will be published soon on www.camminafrancigena.it
Santiago, Rome and Jerusalem.
I started to publish on our website a series of articles, both in Italian and in (my:-) English, with useful information about walks between Santiago, Rome and Jerusalem.
The first three articles will talk about the connection between Via Francigena and Camino de Santiago, on Via Aurelia and Via Domitia to Arles, and then on Via Tolosana to Somport.
Who can give me additional information and links about the a/m routes is welcome.
You can read the first article, about the great Peter Robbins website:
http://www.movimentolento.it/en/resource/blog/AlbertoConte/walking-pilgrim-la-mappa-interattiva-dei-grandi-ca/

A new article will be published every week.
Ultreya!
Alberto Conte
www.camminafrancigena.it
www.movimentolento.it

And, from Peter Robins:
I have just this week added detailed mapping for the Monginevro-Arles GR653D to my site. http://maps.peterrobins.co.uk/f/overview/montgenevre.html Parts of the route are now printed on the IGN maps, and the whole route has been checked by someone who walked it in 2009, so should be reasonably accurate.

VF Five Pilgrims to Rome book

In May 2007 I announced that I had transferred all of our blog posts to a word doc and had it printed as a book.  We even got an ISBN number for our book. 
The printer did 5 soft copies each for us and one hardback copy.
We had a special book "L [a] unch" in a castle near Shongweni (about 25km from my home) where we signed all the copies of the books before sharing them out.
Four years down the line we have decided to put our book out there and I will reformat it and make it available on Kindle. 
I'm quite looking forward to sharing it with wanna-be Via Francigena pilgrims and although a few things have changed since we walked the VF, I think there is a lot of useful information, insights and advice from the five different peregrinos who contributed to the book.

New VF Website

Posted on the VF Yahoo Group Forum

Hi everyone!

I want to suggest a new italian web site by the group "Camminando sulla Via Francigena".

http://www.camminandosullaviafrancigena.com/

There, you can find all the maps and the tracks of the official path of Via Francigena and many other information. The web is in italian language but you can translate by gogle traductor component :)
Cristina, the creator of the group, has just finished to signalized the whole path (from Pont Saint Martin to Rome) with the new white and red signs with a black pilgrim in the middle, after three months of hard work by the help of some volunteers pilgrims...

You can find her testimoniance about this work on

http://www.occhiali3d.com/lavia/?cat=7&option=com_wordpress&Itemid=44

Cheers

Camminandosullaviafrancigena.com Staff

The VF in Switzerland

When I was planning our VF trip we only had a month to walk so I asked other VF pilgrims to recommend the best sections.  All agreed that the most beautiful was the route through Switzerland, the Aosta Valley, Tuscany and Lazio.
So we planned to walk from Lake Lausanne to Ivrea.  (We skipped a 200km section in the north across the rice paddies of the Po Valley and continued from Parma and Luca to Rome).  The Swiss section was the most beautiful and the most memorable.  The hiking was rated 'easy' but the conditions rated 'difficult'.
 This website has all the information a hiker would need to walk 215km of the VF in Switzerland including transport (how to get there), profile maps, stages, accommodation, guide books, etc,  http://www.wanderland.ch/fr/buecher_karten.cfm

It lists 12 sections starting from Ste-Croix

Section 1 Ste-Croix

Section 2 Ste-Croix–Yverdon-les-Bains
Section 3 Yverdon-les-Bains–Orbe
Section 4 Orbe–Cossonay
Section 5 Cossonay–Lausanne
Section 6 Lausanne–Vevey
Section 7 Vevey–Aigle
Section 8 Aigle–St-Maurice
Section 9 St-Maurice–Martigny
Section 10 Martigny–Orsières
Section 11 Orsières–Bourg-St-Pierre
Section 12 Bourg-St-Pierre–Col du Gd St-Bernard

Profile photos from http://www.wanderland.ch/

"The Swiss stage runs through a variety of landscapes and is without doubt also one of the most spectacular pilgrims’ paths in Europe.  The route from Sainte-Croix to Vuiteboeuf leads past unique sections of cart tracks then alongside the quiet Venoge to Lac Léman. Stops at Romainmôtier Abbey and the Roman mosaics in Orbe are highly recommended.
From Lausanne, the Via Francigena runs through the vineyards of Lavaux to the bend in the Rhone. From the ancient city of Octodurus, it winds through the narrow pass shaped by the wild waters of the Drance to the northern slopes of the Grossen Sant Bernhard-Pass. In Val d’Entremont, medieval villages line the route, which peaks in the aptly-named Combe des Morts."

2011 JANUARY NEWSLETTER OF 'SLOW MOVEMENT'

English translation (with permission) from http://www.itineraria.eu/



Newsletter for traveling without haste, walking and cycling

The importance of hospitality
The House of the Slow Movement from 8 to April 10 will host the second course “Hospitallers for volunteers”. In addition, we included in our maps interactive workplaces for hospitality "poor."
Signs and accommodation are the main weaknesses of the Via Francigena, and as usual the slow movement seeking to help measures to improve the situation. By partnering with Ad Limina Petri, the Association of the Church dealing with the Catholic Via Francigena, the census of structures host
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/news/accoglienza-via-francigena/
Carried out by the CEI in the last year has been included in the database geographic site
http://www.camminafrancigena.it/    www.camminafrancigena.it/it/.
This will allow pilgrims to see on our interactive map nearly 150 places of accommodation "poor", including many parishes that have not yet appeared in the lists currently available.

Hospitaleros VoluntariosAlso, after the success of the course for volunteers is Hospitaller held in Monteriggioni in 2010, this year we decided to repeat the wonderful experience at the newly formed House of the Slow Movement, which will host a free course devoted to volunteers wishing to operate a hostel on the Camino de Santiago and Via Francigena.
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/blog/AlbertoConte/la-cronaca-del-corso-degli-hospitaleros/
The course will also be a time of celebration and meeting of the Hospitaller Spanish and Italian communities living along the Via Francigena Piedmont. Probably we will organize a second course in Tuscany. I will confirm as soon as possible.  If you are interested in attending the course please contact us in the next newsletter will give you the details ull'iniziativa.
www.movimentolento.it/it/about/contacts/
Alberto Conte

News
World Day of Slowness - "Ambitious and altruistic"
The art of living with slow non-profit organization presents the Fifth Day of the World Slow to reflect on the damage of economic, environmental and social live at breakneck speed. The event will be celebrated in Italy and around the world February 28, 2011 and we are all invited to participate in our cities, with friends, colleagues or family creating our small but great event.
Go slow, be happy!
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/news/giornata-mondiale-della-lentezza/

Also in Liguria bike for free on local trains
The agreement between Regione Liguria and Trenitalia has been officially officially confirmed and another example of the concreteness dissemination of sustainable mobility. The entire list of trains identified can be viewed and downloaded from the website of the Liguria Region.
For advice on how to place the bike on trains can be downloaded from the site Fiab driving "Train + bike".
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/news/anche-liguria-bici-gratis-sui-treni-regionali/

National Day of the Railways Forget - "A window on the landscape "
Preparations for the Fifth National Day of the Railways Forget, in program March 6, 2011, proceed with great enthusiasm. On the website 24 events already present. The sponsors of the Alpine Pearls Association committed to the promotion of sustainable tourism, invites you to attend the photo competition "A window on the landscape, and win a weekend with accommodation and tours of soft mobility.
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/news/giornata-nazionale-ferrovie-dimenticate/>

Read all news
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/news/

Appointments - Lenses
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/news/appuntamenti-lenti-seminari-e-corsi/
"WORDS ON THE WAY: Travelling tell, tells the journey
From Friday 11 to Sunday, February 13, at the home of the Slow Movement, actor John Balzaretti reveal the secrets of the story. Watch the video that introduces the course and its contents.
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/news/parole-cammino/
The "Appointments lenses" are a series of seminars and residential courses have in common the journey on foot and by bicycle.
Photography, use of GPS, storytelling, painting, walking deep, and a seminar for aspiring travelers on foot are some of the topics will be treated between February and March.
Read the schedule of courses and programs.
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/news/appuntamenti-lenti-seminari-e-corsi/

Blogs
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/blog/>
"Pilgrim becomes" Carla De Bernardi
And that's how I came July 31 in Rome with fellow pilgrims from Triumphal Way, which has nothing triumphant. It was almost one o'clock and we were hungry. The Roman road from the capital had Campagnano through forests and golden fields ...
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/blog/CarladeBernardi/pellegrini-si-diventa-iii/

"Around the corner, hit by the sun", by Claudio Jaccarino
Don Milan from the overpass can I watch long brush-strokes of green Canal flowing or the row of old chimneys and signs pubbliciarie that dot the rooftops ...
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/blog/ClaudioJaccarino/giro-langolo-investito-dal-sole/

"The Rio Bovina, according to the goats," Richard Carnovalini
From large rivers in a small stream below the house with a leap of twenty years. Paths are not always sought and desired. Sometimes you live in the country and to choose an animal to breed more that there are naughty ...
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/blog/RiccardoCarnovalini/il-rio-bovina-seguendo-le-capre/
Read all articles in the blog
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/blog/

Travels
www.compagniadeicammini.it/it/>
Dunes to salt lake of Sidi Naji - 6 to 13 March 2011
A fascinating trek over the dunes that surround the Great Depression clay that is named after the marabout buried one of its banks. A journey through the ancient beliefs and traditions Sahrawi. Stories to listen to crouch around the campfire, after a day's walk, enjoying a strong green tea, a fragrant "pain de sable "and the delicious dates of this land.
www.compagniadeicammini.it/it/resource/blog/WebmasterCdC/dalle-dune-al-lago-salato-di-sidi-naji/
Visit the new website of the Society of the Ways and read your calendar complete travel.
www.compagniadeicammini.it/it/

Traveling slowly along the ancient roads
www.camminafrancigena.it/it
Year on record ViaFrancigena
Already passed the first pilgrim in 2010 were 210. Are you a good morning starts in the morning, the new year promises to be a record: come on 4 January 2011 of the first pilgrim to the host via Francigena Benedictine grange in Orio Litta.
www.camminafrancigena.it/it/resource/news/anno-di-record-la-francigena/

The CamminAttori visit the extraordinary artistic laboratory of Mark Guglielmi, Viterbo
www.francigenalazio.it/it/resource/poi/laboratorio-artistico/>

Watch the video of the stage from Viterbo and download the Montefiascone roadbook
www.francigenalazio.it/it/resource/track/vf-39-da-montefiascone-viterbo/

Follow the advice of Cammina Francigena videoracconti and 2010 on
www.francigenalazio.it/it/ and join Facebook group "Via Francigena in Lazio to share photos and Information on the treatment of Lazio ViaFrancigena.
www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=197804468054

Subscribe to "CamminaFrancigena" to keep you informed about the news of Major Cultural Route! www.facebook.com/camminafrancigena>

The slow movement in social networks
Join our community on Facebook, join us and write about
Leave your comments of the Slow Movement.
www.facebook.com/cultura.del.viaggio
We provide all lovers of travel and walking Cycling a place where to meet and talk about their experiences.
Become our friend on Twitter!
twitter.com/#%21/movimentolento>

Visit our website to read more news Articles and itineraries for those traveling slowly
www.movimentolento.it/

The slow movement is an initiative organized by the cultural route, disclose the journey on foot and by bicycle. www.itineraria.eu
The newsletter goes out without periodicity, is free and open to members of the list of the Slow Movement.

UP-DATES FROM THE WWW GRAPE VINE

From:  http://www.viafrancigena.eu/

The President Massimo Tedeschi AEVF awarded honorary citizenship of Canterbury. The event was held at the presentation of the twelfth edition of the journal ViaFrancigena

On the route:
Although not located along the official route, we note that the bridge over the Po in San Rocco al Porto (Lodi) is broken. For Orio Litta (Lodi) pilgrims in St. Andrew's Court to direct bicycle do not have access embankment.
Coming to Bicester, the ford of the river Stirone is no longer passable, but you can use the road bridge Sigerico and, pending the new official surveys, indicate an alternative route to cross the river and rejoin the path Stirone ministry. After the village of Bastelli, turn left and go straight for about 1,200 m, then turn immediately right towards Bicester, on a bridge in excess of the A1. After about 1,500 meters, turn left and walk along the bridge Sigerico. We descend, turn right towards compulsory and pass under the bypass and then get behind the cemetery and find the location of Bicester ministry. In an annex to the photo and the map shows in red the alternative route that is temporarily advised to follow.

The section of trail that leads to the Pieve di San Miniato Coiano Castelfiorentino is interrupted for landslide and also precluded the pedestrians. Due to reports of a pilgrim, we suggest an alternative route: via the intersection of Mellicciano, because of Poggiarella Meleto and so, due to take Meleto, to our left. From here you reach a paved country road, where you must go right, towards the local customs and then to Castelfiorentino. Before entering the country, at the roundabout, continue for Gambassi Terme and from there take the Via Francigena.

About the French section of the Via Francigena may be required to the Association des Pèlerins de Compostella et de Rome, to the email address ass-pèlerinscompostellerome@hotmail.fr.

You can download the GPS tracks of the section that crosses the French Champagne-Ardenne on the following link: http://www.tourisme-champagne-ardenne.com/balades/voyageurs/via-francigena.aspx

A variation on the section from Fidenza to Bastelli
http://www.viafrancigena.eu/public/documents/variantebastelli_fidenza.pdf

Accommodation Guide updated on 3 December 2010-12-20

Events:
14 and 15 January 2011 Novoli (LE) :  ViaFrancigena. Journey of faith and cultural tourism
Workshop
"Via Francigena. Journey of faith and cultural tourism "is the title of the workshop offering the Department of Heritage, Arts and History at the University of Salento, the City of Novoli Association Vie Francigena Pugliese. The aim is to promote a project whose purpose is to recover the ancient historical role of an ancient path of a religious nature, which represents an important opportunity for knowledge of the area.  Will be involved in the agro-food and local crafts, there are a panel discussion on the possibility of enjoying ViaFrancigena and a guided walk along the stretch of the Adriatic ViaFrancigena Salento.

Credencial
Download the application form.
Fees for requests from abroad
A credential: € 7.05 - 11 x 23 cm bag
2 or 3 credentials: € 7.65 - 11 x 23 cm bag
up to 8 Credentials: € 9.15 - 23 x 33 cm bag
up to 10 credentials: € 10.15 - 23 cm x 33 envelope
more than 10 credentials: € 13.65 - 23 x 33 envelope or larger
Post it to Piazza Duomo, 16-43036 Bicester (Pr) a letter containing the request form, duly completed, including a pre-paid envelope with a quantity of stamps corresponding to 5.35 €. This amount, in fact, it is necessary to cover the shipping cost A / R (+ registered return receipt) for a credential

Other organizations distribute their credentials: Theubilantes, Brotherhood of Romei, ViaFrancigena Association, Confraternity of St James of Compostela, Eurovia, Ad Limina Petri.
In France, the credentials can be requested to the Association des Pèlerins de Compostella et de Rome: ass-pèlerinscompostellerome@hotmail.fr

The Magazine Via Francigena
Order from the website: http://www.rivistaviafrancigena.it/
Read a summary of the latest edition;
From http://www.francigenalazio.movimentolento.it/

http://www.movimentolento.it/
The Way of Art now on line
Art is now a constant presence in our walk, so we decided to dedicate a website to CamminArtisti and CamminAttori.
The project began through the work of Blessed herbicides, the communicator of our environmental journey Ge-Mi-To through the industrial triangle, and the financing of Farework, a project of the Province of Milan, which was intended to accompany the artistic talents in via entrepreneurship.
Benedict played the key work in media, publishing on the site www.camminarte.movimentolento.it videos that tell the artistic realities encountered during our trip, as well as photographs, music, paintings, travel notebooks of artists that we accompanied it.
This is just the start again next year we will organize "travel artist", as we believe that the arts can be a powerful vehicle to communicate the beauty of a slow journey. The site will be enhanced, also expect your contributions!
Alberto Conte

News
Seminar on the integration of data paths Bicitalia
Saturday, December 11 the tale at its headquarters in Milan offers a training meeting in view of the mapping of over 16,000 km of paths Bicitalia. We discuss techniques for data entry. Participation, Fiab reserved for members is free but places limited. Reservations are recommended.

Way and art along "paths of Monet Bordighera
On the occasion of the exhibition "Mediterranean from Courbet to Monet to Matisse" (Palazzo Ducale, Genoa), the Coop Liguria Roads to Discover invites us all to Bordighera, to participate in a series of guided walks. Every Saturday will be organized between escurisioni landscapes, exotic gardens, and forests that are illuminated by the intense Mediterranean light inspired many artists and painters during the second half of the nineteenth century.

Gianluca Bonazzi presents his travel diary in San Benigno Canavese

L 'Association Smile, sponsored by the City of San Benigno Canavese organized a series of "Meet the Author" and Friday, December 17, at 21:00, at the Library "Pierre Octave Fasani, Gianluca Bonazzi will talk about his travel diary born after the trip-event that brought him groan to walk along three sides of the industrial triangle Genoa-Milan-Turin.

Read all news
The blog
Stop the killing!, Alberto Conte
Once again it comes to the safety of cyclists and users 'weak' of the road just after a serious car accident. Seven deaths together is an enormous, as they were three years ago, the seven deaths on the work of Thyssen ...

Pellegrini becomes, Carla de Bernardi
On foot? These are crazy, it was my first thought. And then? On July 31? A month of walking? Come on ... On second thought was .... But I went with them. And so one morning I left the house ...

Winter in the Celtic huts Apennines, Gianfranco Bracci
After leaving behind the beautiful refuge of the Celtic huts, am going to walk alone, "the costume and I" (me and my jacket), as they said when they wanted to emphasize the old Tuscan to be his alone ...

Proposal for a co-housing on the Frankish Road of Courage Immaculate
We would like to create a co-housing/eco village along a path (preferably along the Via Francigena Lake Bolsena) which converge in the satisfaction of various needs / desideri.Ci seems important that arise along the way ...

Read all articles in the blog
Traveling slowly along the ancient roads

Discovering Via Francigena - second meeting of pilgrims Aulla
In the marvelous Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, Saturday 11 and Sunday, December 12 will be held the second in a series of meetings among the pilgrims. A meeting for all lovers of the "way" to know, "walk" and discuss the problems and opportunities for intervention on the route of the Via Francigena.

Monteriggioni - new project of "poor reception" for the pilgrims
The municipality of Monteriggioni decided to create a new hostel in the service of pilgrims. A small guest house "low-cost" (8 / 10 beds) inspired by the ancient hospitable, allowing for modern pilgrims to stay overnight in comfort at low cost, simply by showing the credentials of the sections covered.

Interview with Renato Trap, a great lover of ViaFrancigena
Between Bolsena and Montefiascone the ViaFrancigena flows between olive groves and patches of woodland, with a path of ups and downs and stunning views of the lake, which covers some features in basalt of the ancient Via Cassia. Upon arrival we met Renato Trap, a great lover of Via Cassia, tells us his views on the current path and the qualities that in his opinion less considered are the value added of the Central European pilgrimage.

Watch the video and download the road book of the stage
Follow the advice of CamminaFrancigena videoracconti and 2010 on http://www.francigenalazio.it/ and subscribe to the group on Facebook "ViaFrancigena in Lazio to share photos and information regarding treatment of Lazio ViaFrancigena.

Subscribe to "CamminaFrancigena" to keep you informed about news of the great cultural itinerary!

The slow movement in social networks

Join our community on Facebook, join us and write on the board of the Movement Slow your comments.

We provide all lovers of walking and cycling trip to a place where to meet and talk about their experiences.

Become our friend also on Twitter !

http://www.movimentolento.it/ Visit our website to read more news, articles and itineraries for those traveling slowly.

From http://www.walkingplaces.co.uk/
A couple set off from Canterbury on 2 August and arrived in Rome on 3 November.
Read about it here: http://ifalutin.blogspot.com/

From http://www.laviadiromalaviafrancigenadisanfrancesco.com/

La Via Francigena di San Francesco

From: http://ebookpedia.net/La-via-francigena-the-francigena-road.html

An Italian Odyssey: One Couple's Culinary and Cultural Pilgrimage: Julie Burk & Neville Tencer

A couple of years ago I sent Neville and Julie a CD with maps, our daily guides translated from the Italian AEVF website and copies of our daily info sheets compiled for our walk on the VF in 2006.  Many of the maps had been sent to me by another VF Pilgrim, Jeff  McDonald, who walked the VF in 2004.  The others were downloaded from the AEVF website.  Neville and Julie were planning their walk on the VF from Martingy to Rome. 

In August 2010, Neville announced the release of a book about their VF adventure - "An Italian Odyssey: One Couple's Culinary and Cultural Pilgrimage".  I couldn't wait to read it!  We had blogged about our walk and Val had written a whole section about food on the blog. 

Neville very kindly sent me a copy of the book and asked if I would write a review.

Last week, I posted this review on the Amazon website. 

"To be honest, I found it difficult to review this book objectively. Not because it isn't well written - it is. It is fast moving, with lots of interesting history and delicious food reports thrown in. It makes fascinating reading, especially for anyone contemplating walking the Via Francigena through Italy. The authors took more time out to visit places of historic interest than most pilgrims do and delighted in sharing their enjoyment of regional foods and delicacies. However, Neville and Julie's experience was so different from my Via Francigena trek that I found it hard to identify with their tales of hardships and their constant bickering and squabbling brought on by getting lost, searching for places to stay, often blamed on demons and trickery. When the going turned tough, the tough turned on each other!

Unlike them, we climbed up to the Gr St Bernard in beautiful June sunshine and although it wasn't easy traversing melting glaciers and detouring around large banks of snow, we managed the 11 hour haul to the pass with no dramas or extreme physical challenges and no fall-out.

I must admit that in 2006 when I and four friends walked the Via Francigena from Lake Leman in Switzerland to Rome, we were often bemused and confused by the signs and directions but we never  actually got lost, not once.

Perhaps this is because we listened to experienced pilgrims' advice and skipped a 200km section in the north and took a train from Ivrea to Parma.

We booked every night's accommodation ahead and, amazingly for 5 very different women walking together, we didn't have any heated disagreements or arguments even when the going got tough. I loved their idea of writing the story from a cultural and culinary perspective. This sets the book apart from scores of similar pilgrimage tales, which by their very nature, are often merely day to day accounts of getting up, packing the back pack, walking all day, arriving, eating and sleeping. This book is much more than that. In Julie's words, theirs was "an extraordinary experience with a bitter undertone but with time, sweet, spicy and delicious."

PS: I've been asked about the 3 Star rating. I don't like fights, especially between couples and when they nearly gave up walking because of them, I nearly gave up on the book. I'm glad I didn't because as the terrain inproved so did their disposition and the story!"

Neville explained to me that the worst part of the VF through Italy is the section we skipped - the section from Ivrea to Fidenza.  It is this tough, difficult section that is a source of grief for many. While there are other locations along the VF that could be improved, this ± 200km section was a source of lot of pain for them and hence represented their “hell” of a Dante 3-act play. They did not want to sugar coat their experience and hence the second section of the book focuses on the hellish experiences of this stage of the walk.  I take his point.  We followed the advice of Joe Paterson and Andrew and Carol Walsh who walked the VF the year before me and skipped that section altogether.
Another source of aggravation for almost everyone who has walked the VF is finding accommodation. As far back as 2003 when I was researching the Via for our planned walk, the only written accounts were Veronica O'Connors short diary of her walk in 2002, Brandon Wilson's diary of his walk from the Gr St Bernard to Rome and Jeff McDonald's diary of his walk in 2004. 
Jeff often referred to his frustration in trying to find a hotel at the end of a day.  His diary gives the time taken for each stage, and in it he writes:  'The times include finding accommodation each day, sometimes that could take an hour or so.'

My friend John, who is a seasoned pilgrimage walker, walked the VF in 2005 and on his return said that he would never recommend it to anyone. He struggled to find accommodation, sometimes having to sleep on a park bench, in a cardboard box, on the portico of a church and one night, in a police station.  He also got hopelessly lost on numerous occasions and said that he felt he was committing suicide walking on some of the busy roads with huge trucks and heavy traffic hurtling down on him.

Because of these tales of woe, we decided not to risk trying to find beds at night for five middle-aged women so I laboriously booked beds for every night before we left South Africa.  And, we were so pleased we'd done that.  No matter how far we had to walk; no matter how tired we were; no matter how incorrect the mileages were (some days we thought we'd be walking 23km and ended up walking over 30km) we always knew that there was a hot shower and a clean bed waiting for us at the end of the day.  It took the anxiety and panic out of the walk and gave us the lee-way to take our time, enjoy the scenery and interact with the locals.

The Via Francigena today is probably what the Camino was like 30 years ago.  We only met two pilgrims.  One at the Gr St Bernard hospice who was not walking to Rome, and a couple of cyclists in Sienna.  We bundu-bashed our way through ploughed fields, tall rows of corn, over dry stone walls and waded through rivers where the bridges had fallen down.  It was tough.  It was hot - sometimes over 40oC in the shade.  And, there was very little pilgrim accommodation - only two albergues which were not only for pilgrims.

What's it like now?  Reading Neville and Julie's book, I don't think much has changed.  There are guide books available in English and more pilgrim accommodation in monasteries and convents.  Perhaps VF pilgrims are no longer the 'pioneers' we were described as by Adelaide Trezzini when we joined the AIVF, but it is still a difficult walk made more so by the lack of infrastructure and accommodation.

(Tarta d' Erbe - made by Nona Norina in Pentremoli)

NEWSLETTER FROM THE AEVF

News and photos from: Associazione Europea delle Vie Francigene September 2010


Day of Cultural Routes scheduled in Brussels
Vice President of the European Commission, Antonio Tajani, promotes the Council of Europe Cultural Routes

August 2010
Journeying through the Way of St. Olav
A journey of pilgrimage in northern Europe, including Norway, Sweden and Denmark

August 3, 2010

26/08/2010 Canterbury and km zero ViaFrancigena

Pending the official presentation of ViaFrancigena at the European Commission within the day devoted to other Council of Europe Cultural Routes, the ancient path of Sigeric is attracting millions of pilgrims and enthusiasts who have walked this summer - and are still walking - along the Via Francigena.

There has been an increase in the numbers of those starting in the English city of Canterbury, in the heart of Kent, which starts in front of the magnificent cathedral the stone indicating the kilometer zero of the route.   The English section that accompanies the pilgrims to the dramatic cliffs of Dover, where you can sail to the French city of Calais, has finally been fitted with new signs by the Kent County Council. Twenty-eight km route attractive to combine art, history and nature.

This newsletter offers some phtographs of the English course, A whole new signage for the ViaFrancigena English
New signs were placed at the beginning of July
http://www.associazioneviafrancigena.it//default.asp?s=27&o=5447&c=0

Event - Fidenza From Rome
40 pilgrims on their way :  Those who wish can join the group for short distance

Event -  the Great St. Bernard in Pont-Saint-Martin :  Discovering ViaFrancigena Aosta Valley
Interesting proposals for the 2010 walk

Event - Santiago de Compostela and Le-Puy-En-Velay :  Formal closure of the relay International Europe-Compostela 2010 : The event will take place on 18 and 25 September 2010 the first in Santiago de Compostela and then to Le-Puy-En-Velay

Photogallery:  Canterbury (UK)

http://www.associazioneviafrancigena.it//default.asp?s=73&o=4708&c=0
See photos of the consecration of the altar dedicated to Saint Anselm
The Archbishop of Canterbury, Dr. Rowan Williams, blesses the new altar in the Chapel of Sant'Alselmo in Canterbury Cathedral , with the Rev. Jonathan Goodall and Bishop Giuseppe Anfossi of Aosta bishop .

Photogallery:  Canterbury, the English stage of ViaFrancigena : http://www.associazioneviafrancigena.it//default.asp?s=27&o=5447&c=0

A visit to the place of Archbishop Sigeric
Photos of the cathedral, the town, the boys choir singing at the inauguration of km zero, of the route between Canterbury and the sea as well as photographs of Dover, the Dover Castle etc.


Photogallery: From Rome to the Great Saint Bernard

Relay-Europe International Compostela 2010

Photogallery: ViaFrancigena Morenic Canavesana;

http://www.associazioneviafrancigena.it//default.asp?s=27&o=7445&c=0 

The ViaFrancigena in Piedmont (Chiesa di Santa Maria Maddalena_Burolo)

Great up-date and comments on the waymarking and signage along the VF

 Copied with permission of Dave Whitson, leader of a group of students on the VF from Montreux to Montjovet and Fidenza to Roma, and Paul Chinn, co-author of the Lightfoot Guides to the Via Francigena

The complete 2010 LightFoot Guide to the via Francigena consists of three books:

Vol. One Canterbury to Besançon

Vol. Two Besançon to Vercelli

Vol. Three Vercelli to Rome

Information provided in each section:

Instruction sheet/s comprising:

Detailed directions corresponding to GPS way point numbers on the maps Distance (in metres) between each way point

Verification Point - additional verification of current position

Compass direction

Maps comprising:

A visual representation of the route with way point numbers and adjacent details

Altitude Profile for the section
Icons indicating places to stay, monuments etc Relevant signs to look out for along the route
Map reference number/s for the section.

In this 2010 edition the authors continue to use the official route in Italy, as approved and signed by the Italian Minister of Culture, but also offer dditional opportunities where it is too challenging for one or more groups. This density of information has increased the number of instruction sheets and the decision has been taken to transfer all cultural and historical information to the Companion to the via Francigena. 

Dave Whitson

My group of 9 successfully completed our pilgrimage on the Via Francigena on August 4. We walked from Montreux to Montjovet, hopped on a train, and then continued walking from Fidenza to Rome. Having skimmed through emails on the list while I was gone, I realize I'm going a little against consensus when I write this, but I remain very positive and excited about waymarking on the VF.

Now, the Lightfoot Guides remain critical, both for the occasional stretches when the WM dry up and for places where the authors' recommended route alternative is superior to the WM one. But, we typically felt very comfortable allowing our students to walk without a teacher-guide, leaving them to find their way along the route.

There are a handful of exceptions worth noting, though. It's possible that these were addressed in the 2010 version of the Lightfoot Guide -  I'm still working out of the 2009 edition.

Paul Chinn (Lightfoot Guides for the Via Francigena)

On the general issue of signing the situation has greatly improved over the years, but there remain provinces, principally in areas of the north which you were lucky to skip, where the situation remains poor.

It seems that you have also encountered the issue of what I think of as the Tower of Babel of signing. The 2009 edition of the book generally follows the "official route" as defined by the Ministry of Culture. The ministry, via the communes intended to fully sign this route, however the work is incomplete, and many of the WM's that you describe relate to other/prior views of the route and can and do conflict with the "official route". Hence some of the angst we have expressed on the issue.


Dave:

1) On the walk from Villeneuve to St. Maurice, the book instructs you to stay on the canal at 37.14. WM guide you away from it, towards the small town of Chessel. I would follow the WM, as this is your last good chance at a fountain for a while.

Paul:  It is often a tough call between distance and amenity. I think the WMs that you mention must lead to the Rhone and then rejoin our route a couple of waypoints further on. If this is the case it would add about 1500m to the section. Happy to add a comment on this to the next edition, do you recall the style of WM - we are well off the official/70 route at this point?

2) On the walk from Martigny to Orsieres, soon after Chamoille d'Orsieres, yellow arrows will lead you sharply downhill on a footpath, past a house on your right, eventually taking you to the

highway. Ignore these and stay on the flat, paved road. The approach to Orsieres is much more pleasant.

Paul:  Agree. The current edition sticks with the small road.

3) Our students were not pleased with the "official" route from Aosta to Chatillon. The assorted uphills seemed unnecessary and particularly frustrating given the toll the previous two days of walking had taken on their bodies. I would probably follow the authors' alternative in the future.

Paul:   I am afraid this is an example of the challenges that face the route designer. The Ministry, I think, were very insistent on minimizing the amount of tarmac used - perhaps an over simplification of safety concerns. The official route then searches for pathways. In general these are not new paths but ones used by day walkers that are out for a short burst of vigorous exercise, but that also go in the right general direction. We have been lobbying, so far with no great impact, that the official route should reflect the specific needs of the (very) long distance pilgrim - so we come back to having to respect the "official route" but offer alternates.

This situation also applies between the Cisa pass and Pontremoli and around Massa where CAI paths have been subsumed into the VF

4) On the walk from Chatillon to Montjovet, take note on 42.045 the point about ignoring the turn to the R. Insistent yellow arrows will try to convince you to turn R downhill. This route just buys you a

lot of highway walking. Stick with the book.

Paul:  I think this might be an example of the Tower of Babel of signing.

5) Last time, I wrote that the Felegara area had no WM. It is now fully waymarked.

Paul:  The province of Parma have done a great job in signing. However, in Fornovo it seems that their job was too good. The pretty metal signs with the pilgrim have now become souvenirs - we have photos that show the existence of signs 2 years ago where there are no signs now and even a photo of a bracket minus its sign. There is a nice piece of research to be done here on the optimum capital cost/aesthetic/frequency/maintenance interval for signs - I am from the school in favour of cheap,easily maintained, vandal proof(ish), but frequent painted signs. Unfortunately I suspect the ministry would not wish to be associated with graffiti.

Very interestingly the VF route from Montgenevre to Vercelli is generally excellently signed with the painted yellow pilgrim and yellow/white arrows while the many CAI and Italian walking association routes also successfully follow this convention.
 

6) IMPORTANT - A shiny new WM has been added on the walk from Berceto to Cisa Pass, encouraging you to turn R off the route towards a hostel. This is one place where our students erred and I can easily understand. Without a careful look and knowledge of the route, I would believe the official route went that way. I'm not happy about this marker.

Paul: It does say Ostello on the sign, but it is (shades of the Camino) remarkably like an official route sign. I will try and strengthen the words of warning in the book.

7) The walk from Pietrasanta to Lucca involves some stretches badly overgrown with blackberry / sticker bushes. In particular, right after 59.007 and just before Montemagno are really, really bad.On the latter, I would just follow the road. 

Paul:  59.037? I know that thicket well. Despite having dragged a bike through it and ripped my shins, there were signs of some extra efforts to cut it back and so I had preferred it to the risk of the busy road. I gather that it must not have improved and so will note and offer the road with safety caveats.

8) The WM continue to disagree with the book on the walk from Siena to Isola d'Arbia, turning L instead of R at 64.014 (the WM route goes through Isola d'Arbia while the book's route bypasses it), from Bagno Vignoni to Gallina (the WM lead you past a spa, along a gravel road, and eventually deposit you on the Via Cassia, leading you through Gallina, which the book bypasses), and from Ponte a Rigo to Acquapendente (the book calls for you to turn R on the Via Cassia, while many insistent WM call for a L)

 Paul:  The book route is/was signed with the fancy new ministry signs. The prior route through Isola d'Arbia (where there is a nice watering hole) also involved the crossing of a muddy maize field of which I have other fond memories with the bike. Did you take the book route? Of course no one has taken responsibility to remove the old signs. On the route through Gallina this is a similar story, but I would argue strongly for keeping away from the via Cassia.

Ponte a Rigo to Aquapendente ditto.

9) The WM have changed slightly on the walk from Acquapendente to San Lorenzo, pulling you back to the Via Cassia a little sooner than they used to. The WM from San Lorenzo to Bolsena were unreliable in places. Fortunately, that lake serves as a handy navigational aid.

Paul: The book route, after leaving San Lorenzo, involves just 150m of the Cassia - did you follow the book here?

10) I have now twice tried and failed to find the Strada Sasso San Pellegrino called for on 70.027 on the walk from Viterbo to Vetralla. I've looked really diligently. I find it hard to believe, at this point, that the street exists. Instead, we followed the WM along the Cassia for probably 2km (maybe more) before WM took us L off of the Cassia shortly before arriving in Vetralla.

Paul: Our error the instruction is not clear - there is a bridge over the via Cassia before you take the ramp down to meet the road proper. You need to take the bridge to find Strada Sasso San Pellegrino on the far side. We will put this right in the 2011 edition.

11) The book instructs you to turn L on Via Dante before entering Monterosi, just missing all facilities in town - and getting an ugly walk out of the deal. Instead, walk straight into the center of town. At the central piazza, you'll find WM calling for a L. Proceed along that road, over a bridge, and eventually onto the highway. Very soon after, you'll fork left off of it. Again, soon after, you'll hit an inter-section with WM pointing you both L and straight ahead. Turn L. You'll be on a white road, the same one that the book instructs you to turn L onto at 71.030

Paul:  This stretch of the highway/via Cassia for me is one of the most dangerous parts of the entire journey . We have stuck with the official route to give it the widest possible berth.  

12) IMPORTANT - 71.031 is one of the most important route choices on the walk. WM will instruct you to turn L onto the paved road. This will result in you spending most of the rest of your walk to Campagnano on pavement and often on highway. Ignore these and follow the book, continuing straight on the dirt road. Eventually, WM will start up again. I can't understand why they don't have one at this

pivotal moment.

Paul:  Agreed

13) IMPORTANT - They have, for some unknown and bizarre reason, to add a shiny new WM in the Madonna del Sorbo park, instructing you to turn R off of the dirt road and walk through the park. I followed this last year. It was a near disaster. Maybe they've developed the route and it's nicer now, but it was a total fiasco 9 months ago. This is one of those frustrating VF spots where one group seems to have decided that they know better than everyone else and so they inserted a definitive WM, instead of indicating that both options are possible. Follow the book and continue straight. WM will resume in 100m.

Paul:  As you know we have battling to try and get some rationalization of the signing

14) IMPORTANT AGAIN - Sorry for three straight importants, but there's a lot going on along these final stretches! A new VF route was just opened in Formello and it's really nice! As you arrive on the edge of town, follow the old VF sign along the steeply descending road into town. Shiny new WM will lead you into the historic center and then out the other side. Purpose-built gravel roads follow, eventually transitioning onto dirt roads. It's a great walk, really pleasant scenery, and it eventually reconnects with the old route at Via Monte Michele. I enthusiastically encourage you to follow this instead of the older approach. 
More than anything, I was struck this time by the incredible level of hospitality offered in many of the stops along the way. My greatest concern with taking my students on the VF instead of the Camino is that they won't get the full sense of the pilgrimage experience with so many fewer pilgrims in Italy. Certainly, we missed the pilgrim community. But, the upshot of a more intimate route is that the level of hospitality offered can potentially be much higher and that it can be much more deeply personal, especially in Tuscany and Lazio. In Altopascio, the mayor actually welcomed us and asked to have his

picture taken with us. In Monteriggioni, Siena, Radicofani, Campagnano, and Rome pilgrim dinners (and sometimes breakfasts) were prepared by the hospitaleros or the community. When our hosts in

Siena and Bolsena learned we were leaving early in the morning, they stayed up and prepared sack breakfasts for the kids. Even in places where the accommodations were very simple, the priests or nuns were often very enthusiastic to have us, extracting all of the conversation they could out of our limited Italian.  On the Camino, quite often the popularity prompts the need for streamlining and efficiency in the albergues. On the VF, we were really touched by just how welcomed we were made to feel.

Paul: Thanks for this. The new route was inaugurated at the end of July and we have written to the municipality for more detail on its routing. If anyone has a GPS trace of this section we would be very grateful to receive it.

I think you have the sense of the VF experience just about right - for us the engagement with the communities en route has been the great joy of the route.


Paul Chinn and Babette Gallard - http://www.pilgrimagepublications.com/