VF Five Pilgrims to Rome book

In May 2007 I announced that I had transferred all of our blog posts to a word doc and had it printed as a book.  We even got an ISBN number for our book. 
The printer did 5 soft copies each for us and one hardback copy.
We had a special book "L [a] unch" in a castle near Shongweni (about 25km from my home) where we signed all the copies of the books before sharing them out.
Four years down the line we have decided to put our book out there and I will reformat it and make it available on Kindle. 
I'm quite looking forward to sharing it with wanna-be Via Francigena pilgrims and although a few things have changed since we walked the VF, I think there is a lot of useful information, insights and advice from the five different peregrinos who contributed to the book.

2011 JANUARY NEWSLETTER OF 'SLOW MOVEMENT'

English translation (with permission) from http://www.itineraria.eu/



Newsletter for traveling without haste, walking and cycling

The importance of hospitality
The House of the Slow Movement from 8 to April 10 will host the second course “Hospitallers for volunteers”. In addition, we included in our maps interactive workplaces for hospitality "poor."
Signs and accommodation are the main weaknesses of the Via Francigena, and as usual the slow movement seeking to help measures to improve the situation. By partnering with Ad Limina Petri, the Association of the Church dealing with the Catholic Via Francigena, the census of structures host
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/news/accoglienza-via-francigena/
Carried out by the CEI in the last year has been included in the database geographic site
http://www.camminafrancigena.it/    www.camminafrancigena.it/it/.
This will allow pilgrims to see on our interactive map nearly 150 places of accommodation "poor", including many parishes that have not yet appeared in the lists currently available.

Hospitaleros VoluntariosAlso, after the success of the course for volunteers is Hospitaller held in Monteriggioni in 2010, this year we decided to repeat the wonderful experience at the newly formed House of the Slow Movement, which will host a free course devoted to volunteers wishing to operate a hostel on the Camino de Santiago and Via Francigena.
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/blog/AlbertoConte/la-cronaca-del-corso-degli-hospitaleros/
The course will also be a time of celebration and meeting of the Hospitaller Spanish and Italian communities living along the Via Francigena Piedmont. Probably we will organize a second course in Tuscany. I will confirm as soon as possible.  If you are interested in attending the course please contact us in the next newsletter will give you the details ull'iniziativa.
www.movimentolento.it/it/about/contacts/
Alberto Conte

News
World Day of Slowness - "Ambitious and altruistic"
The art of living with slow non-profit organization presents the Fifth Day of the World Slow to reflect on the damage of economic, environmental and social live at breakneck speed. The event will be celebrated in Italy and around the world February 28, 2011 and we are all invited to participate in our cities, with friends, colleagues or family creating our small but great event.
Go slow, be happy!
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/news/giornata-mondiale-della-lentezza/

Also in Liguria bike for free on local trains
The agreement between Regione Liguria and Trenitalia has been officially officially confirmed and another example of the concreteness dissemination of sustainable mobility. The entire list of trains identified can be viewed and downloaded from the website of the Liguria Region.
For advice on how to place the bike on trains can be downloaded from the site Fiab driving "Train + bike".
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/news/anche-liguria-bici-gratis-sui-treni-regionali/

National Day of the Railways Forget - "A window on the landscape "
Preparations for the Fifth National Day of the Railways Forget, in program March 6, 2011, proceed with great enthusiasm. On the website 24 events already present. The sponsors of the Alpine Pearls Association committed to the promotion of sustainable tourism, invites you to attend the photo competition "A window on the landscape, and win a weekend with accommodation and tours of soft mobility.
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/news/giornata-nazionale-ferrovie-dimenticate/>

Read all news
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/news/

Appointments - Lenses
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/news/appuntamenti-lenti-seminari-e-corsi/
"WORDS ON THE WAY: Travelling tell, tells the journey
From Friday 11 to Sunday, February 13, at the home of the Slow Movement, actor John Balzaretti reveal the secrets of the story. Watch the video that introduces the course and its contents.
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/news/parole-cammino/
The "Appointments lenses" are a series of seminars and residential courses have in common the journey on foot and by bicycle.
Photography, use of GPS, storytelling, painting, walking deep, and a seminar for aspiring travelers on foot are some of the topics will be treated between February and March.
Read the schedule of courses and programs.
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/news/appuntamenti-lenti-seminari-e-corsi/

Blogs
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/blog/>
"Pilgrim becomes" Carla De Bernardi
And that's how I came July 31 in Rome with fellow pilgrims from Triumphal Way, which has nothing triumphant. It was almost one o'clock and we were hungry. The Roman road from the capital had Campagnano through forests and golden fields ...
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/blog/CarladeBernardi/pellegrini-si-diventa-iii/

"Around the corner, hit by the sun", by Claudio Jaccarino
Don Milan from the overpass can I watch long brush-strokes of green Canal flowing or the row of old chimneys and signs pubbliciarie that dot the rooftops ...
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/blog/ClaudioJaccarino/giro-langolo-investito-dal-sole/

"The Rio Bovina, according to the goats," Richard Carnovalini
From large rivers in a small stream below the house with a leap of twenty years. Paths are not always sought and desired. Sometimes you live in the country and to choose an animal to breed more that there are naughty ...
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/blog/RiccardoCarnovalini/il-rio-bovina-seguendo-le-capre/
Read all articles in the blog
www.movimentolento.it/it/resource/blog/

Travels
www.compagniadeicammini.it/it/>
Dunes to salt lake of Sidi Naji - 6 to 13 March 2011
A fascinating trek over the dunes that surround the Great Depression clay that is named after the marabout buried one of its banks. A journey through the ancient beliefs and traditions Sahrawi. Stories to listen to crouch around the campfire, after a day's walk, enjoying a strong green tea, a fragrant "pain de sable "and the delicious dates of this land.
www.compagniadeicammini.it/it/resource/blog/WebmasterCdC/dalle-dune-al-lago-salato-di-sidi-naji/
Visit the new website of the Society of the Ways and read your calendar complete travel.
www.compagniadeicammini.it/it/

Traveling slowly along the ancient roads
www.camminafrancigena.it/it
Year on record ViaFrancigena
Already passed the first pilgrim in 2010 were 210. Are you a good morning starts in the morning, the new year promises to be a record: come on 4 January 2011 of the first pilgrim to the host via Francigena Benedictine grange in Orio Litta.
www.camminafrancigena.it/it/resource/news/anno-di-record-la-francigena/

The CamminAttori visit the extraordinary artistic laboratory of Mark Guglielmi, Viterbo
www.francigenalazio.it/it/resource/poi/laboratorio-artistico/>

Watch the video of the stage from Viterbo and download the Montefiascone roadbook
www.francigenalazio.it/it/resource/track/vf-39-da-montefiascone-viterbo/

Follow the advice of Cammina Francigena videoracconti and 2010 on
www.francigenalazio.it/it/ and join Facebook group "Via Francigena in Lazio to share photos and Information on the treatment of Lazio ViaFrancigena.
www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=197804468054

Subscribe to "CamminaFrancigena" to keep you informed about the news of Major Cultural Route! www.facebook.com/camminafrancigena>

The slow movement in social networks
Join our community on Facebook, join us and write about
Leave your comments of the Slow Movement.
www.facebook.com/cultura.del.viaggio
We provide all lovers of travel and walking Cycling a place where to meet and talk about their experiences.
Become our friend on Twitter!
twitter.com/#%21/movimentolento>

Visit our website to read more news Articles and itineraries for those traveling slowly
www.movimentolento.it/

The slow movement is an initiative organized by the cultural route, disclose the journey on foot and by bicycle. www.itineraria.eu
The newsletter goes out without periodicity, is free and open to members of the list of the Slow Movement.

Omnes viae Romam perducunt - All roads lead to Rome

This walking holidays website has some good info on what to see when walking the VF from the Swiss Alps to Roma.
http://www.pilgrimroutes.com/italy.aspx
(Picture from the website)

"All roads lead to Rome' (Omnes viae Romam perducunt) - once upon a time this was not so far from the truth. In the Middle Ages pilgrims converged on the spiritual home of European christianity from all over the continent, upon arrival in Italy following the route that linked Rome with Canterbury - the Via Francigena, which, together with the Camino de Santiago, was the principal spiritual route of the great era of pilgrimage. We offer the entire route in eight manageable self-guided sections, each a week long. Guided group departures also available."

Distances for each section is about 120km.

Price: £675 per person based on 2 people sharing. Single supplement: £150

Included: accommodation in hotel**/***, hostels and agriturismo in double rooms with private facilities; bed & breakfast service; 6 dinners; luggage transfer; eventual transfer as described in the program; detailed description of the route and informative material.

LATEST VF IN ITALY GUIDE - FREE DOWNLOAD

This message from Alberto was posted on the Yahoo-VF-Group Forum.

Today I delivered to Italian Culture Ministry the new version of
walking route between Gran San Bernardo and Rome.

It is already published online at the following address:
http://www.librari. beniculturali. it/generaNews. jsp?id=98

You can download free of charge road books, maps, GPS tracks and
Google map tracks.
The road books are in Italian, but they are very schematic, with an
arrow for every crossing so if you process them with an automatic
translator they should be useful.
I suggest you to print road books in A5 format, (2 pages per A4
sheet), on both sides of the sheet to decrease weight (they are about
300 A4 pages that can be reduced to 80-90).

The new route is an evolution of the one published in 2006 by AEVF (I
was the author of that job too). I worked as consultant of Ministry,
cooperating with AEVF members like municipalities, provinces,
regions, and with local associations and agencies to solve the safety
issues of 2006 route. So the new route avoids most of busy roads and
as much as possible stays far from traffic noise and pollution.
The price we are paying is an increasing in route length (about 5%
more than previous version).

I worked also in the preliminary project of simple works that could
improve safety: sidewalks, road crossings, and some major works as
bridges and protected cyclepaths. They could also help in decreasing
route length.

Signs installation has started, and I hope they will complete it
within spring 2009 from Gran San bernardo to Rome. Anyway I suggest
to travel always with the maps (better and lighter a GPS), because
often vandals damage signs.

I hope that this job will be useful for all the future pilgrims on
Via Francigena, and I invite you to contact me to have more
information on the route.

See you soon in Italy!

Alberto Conte
www.camminafrancigena.it

The Road Books (Guides) can be downloaded in sections:

Dal Gran San Bernardo a Ivrea
(Visualizza le tappe su Google Earth)

Tappa: dal Gran San Bernardo a Echevennoz - 14,9 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS

Tappa: da Echevennoz ad Aosta - 13,6 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS

Tappa: da Aosta a Chatillon - 30,1 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS

Tappa: da Chatillon a Verres - 20,8 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS

Tappa: da Verres a Pont Saint Martin - 17,7 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS

Tappa: da Pont Saint Martin a Ivrea - 22,1 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS

Da Ivrea a Pavia
(Visualizza le tappe su Google Earth)

Tappa: da Ivrea a Viverone - 21,7 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS

Tappa: da Viverone a Santhia' - 16,1 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS

Tappa: da Santhia' a Vercelli - 27,4 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS

Tappa: da Vercelli a Robbio - 19,7 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS

Tappa: da Robbio a Mortara - 14,3 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS

Tappa: da Mortara a Garlasco - 23,6 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS

Tappa: da Garlasco a Pavia - 25,9 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS

Da Pavia al Passo della Cisa
(Visualizza le tappe su Google Earth)

Tappa: da Pavia a Santa Cristina - 28,5 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da Santa Cristina a Orio Litta - 16,9 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da Orio Litta a Piacenza - 17,5 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da Piacenza a Fiorenzuola - 32,8 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da Fiorenzuola a Fidenza - 22,6 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da Fidenza a Fornovo - 34,2 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da Fornovo a Cassio - 22,6 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da Cassio al Passo della Cisa - 19,2 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Dal Passo della Cisa a Siena
(Visualizza le tappe su Google Earth)

Tappa: da Passo della Cisa a Pontremoli - 19,4 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da Pontremoli ad Aulla - 32,9 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da Aulla a Avenza - 32,4 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da Avenza a Pietrasanta - 27,8 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da Pietrasanta a Lucca - 32,3 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da Lucca a Altopascio - 17,8 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da Altopascio a San Miniato - 23,5 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da San Miniato a Gambassi Terme - 25,6 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da Gambassi Terme a San Gimignano - 13,4 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da San Gimignano a Monteriggioni - 29,8 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da Monteriggioni a Siena - 20,5 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Da Siena a Roma
(Visualizza le tappe su Google Earth)

Tappa: da Siena a Ponte D'Arbia - 28,5 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da Ponte D'Arbia a S. Quirico d'Orcia - 27,4 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da S. Quirico d'Orcia a Radicofani - 32,7 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da Radicofani a Acquapendente - 31,8 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da Acquapendente a Bolsena - 22,1 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da Bolsena a Montefiascone - 18,3 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da Montefiascone a Viterbo - 17,7 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da Viterbo a Vetralla - 20,0 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da Vetralla a Sutri - 22,5 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da Sutri a Campagnano - 24,3 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da Campagnano a La Storta - 24,4 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

Tappa: da La Storta a Roma - 15,8 km
Road Book (pdf)
Tracce Google Earth e GPS
Galleria fotografica

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 21: - DAY SIX - Aosta to St Vincent 13.3km

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 21: DAY SEVEN - Aosta to St Vincent 13.3km
Sil: Ok, ok - it isn't really only 13km from Aosta to St Vincent but we have got a good excuse for our short walking day. We got up early 5h30 and had breakfast at 7am determined to walk a full 26km today. But we were also determined to post updates on our BLOG as we'd been hiking in the wilderness for 3 days and, Kathy was desperate for antihistamines for her allergies.
We had a slow walk into Aosta and were told that the INFO office had internet. Nothing opened until 9am so we sat on the pavement in the square and waited. Val and I found an open Kodak shop and were able to email photos back home for the Designer Boys to post onto our Blog.
Then back to the INFO office to use the internet but no such luck. I walked with Bernd to the INFO office who said try the Library - trudge, trudge, trudge to the other side of town. Directed up 3 flights of stairs. No such luck – you have to book in advance and there are no free computers. “Try a snooker bar close to the station” which is right on the other side of town near the station. So, trudge, trudge, trudge. Yee-haa!! Four computers- three in working order - and so we all logged on and I directed the typists so that we could post Days 2-5 in order. Back into town for lunch and we'd logged almost 10km on our digi-walkers, but hadn't left town yet.
We couldn't start our 26km walk at 13h30 and the Cryptic Clues advised against walking from Chambave to Chatillon so we got a bus to Chatillon and walked to St Vincent from there. We walked through overgrown fields of dried grasses, tall flowers, floating seed pods and fluff. Poor Kathy started to itch, then to swell, then her eyes started to water and by lunch time she could barely see out of her swollen eyes. Val has a sore throat and the start of a cold. It poured with rain on the way and is drizzling now so we are pleased we didn't start walking further back.
St Vincent is a quaint town in the Mount Zerbion foothills that boasts Europe’s largest casino. We walked besides beautiful gardens to reach the Tourism office to get directions to our B&B and said goodbye to Bernd. The landlady at the Il Tiglio B&B where we are staying is a charming hostess and introduced Marion and me to her family. Her daughter was actually born in Johannesburg 27 years ago but she hasn’t been back since they left when she was three.
The rain stopped and we decided to risk going into the old medieval town to find supper. Kathy needed to withdraw money from an ATM and we all kept an eye on her when three strange guys starting hanging around. Val kept her hand on her pepper-spray and we planned how we would rugby tackle them so that Val could spray them if they got too close to Kathy! We are starting to think like a team!
Kathy: I've realized that walking in the most beautiful fields of wild flowers can be bad for your health. Kathy has some nasty spots on her legs and terribly swollen eyes. I take part of the blame for our late start as I had to get to a Pharmacy for some allergy medication. Found an English speaking Pharmacist who was most helpful and voila - I look a little normal again. Val and I are also encouraging a really good tan by using our Arnica oil as suntan lotion, not quite bikini babes yet - socks and shorts tan line will prevent that.

Marion: Our accommodation was really good last night and we had our own kitchen so we decided to cook instead of going out. We had delicious salad and pasta and lots of good fun. Aosta is a really interesting town lots of Roman ruins, very narrow streets and lots of shops. We walked past a shop which sold fruit and veg so we all went in and stocked up with fruit. Something we have missed. It was very hot and humid today so the rain we are now having is very welcome.
Rayna: Well the terrain is finally friendly - no ravines etc. Spending time in Aosta Val and I decided the next time would be buses and empty suitcases so that we could hit the shops and kill the credit cards! However with the exchange rate it could be a while.

Val: I was very disappointed not to walk the full distance today, I would much rather have done so than have been forced to have lunch in the beautiful Italian town of Aosta! Our 1st Pizza!
I got into trouble last night trying to kill flies with my pepper spray - the table was laid, the wine open and the next moment we were all choking and had to move the entire table to the next apartment. Silvia was still stirring the pasta and had to put a dishcloth mask over her face.

TUESDAY, JUNE 20: DAY FIVE - Gr San Bernado to Aosta 28 Kms

ITALY – VALLE D’AOSTA
TUESDAY, JUNE 20: DAY SIX - Grand St Bernard to Aosta 28 Kms
Sil: I think I died last night because it seemed like my head had just hit the pillow when they started playing loud music through loudspeakers to wake up all the people in the dorms. Bummer.
Breakfast was at 8am sharp. Bread and jam and coffee or hot chocolate. Rayna decided not to risk her fear of heights on the steep down paths so she and Bernd, the German pilgrim who is on his way to Ivrea, shared some of our heavy gear to take with them in the bus. We bought a couple of souvenirs and then walked past the frozen lake after having our photo taken outside the Gr St Bernard altitude sign - 2473m - WOW! I don’t think I’ve ever been this high.
On the way down our VF sign indicated a path that disappeared into a large glacier with water rushing underneath it - I kid you not! We had no option but to walk on the road - and what a road!! Much steeper than the Swiss side - Sani Pass at a steeper gradient, twisting and hairpinning down to the valley below. We stayed on the road until we were at 700m – 1 800m down in 10 kms. The pilgrims from Brazil also tried the path in places but had to abandon it for the road.
We were supposed to walk 12 kms in 3½ hours but walking on the road added another 9kms to the route. Stopped for coffee in St Rhemy and when we reached Etroubles we had lunch and then decided to get a bus or taxi to Aosta instead of walking on the busy A road. The very friendly Tourism staff ordered a cab for us which dropped us at our hotel. We met up with Rayna at the La Roche B&B and as we have kitchens in our rooms we decided to stay in for dinner. We are still on track kilometer-wise.
Marion: It was a lot easier today going downhill. Wonderful views of the mountains, snow, ice and lots of waterfalls. It was a luxury to get a taxi from Etroubles to Aosta after a superb lunch, instead of walking on the busy roads. This gave us a bit of time when we arrived at our accodomation in Aosta to relax sort out our backpacks do our washing and get ready for tomorrow.

Val: We departed Gr St Bernado without seeing one REAL dog - very disappointing. We were forced onto the road due to the snow and ice so we decided to treat ourselves to lunch at Entroubles. Determined to try something different for my first meal in Italy I chose "Pappardella al sugo di Capriolo" - pasta with Roe Deer Sauce" € 9.30 (plus R100) Belissimo!!

Kathy: Nice to walk on roads for a change - much easier on the legs and body! Dropped altitude all the way! Some cyclists passed us going up Gr St Bernard Pass from Italy (looked like really hard work!) only to have them come zooting down again a little while later! Also, many motorcyclists on smart big bikes with panniers and many motorhomes. Had a number of vintage Citroen cars (all beautifully done up) come past us - almost like a small vintage car breakfast run.

MONDAY, JUNE 19: DAY FOUR - La Douay to Gr S Bernado 28Kms

MONDAY, JUNE 19: DAY FIVE - La Douay to Gr S Bernado 28Kms
Sil: I was a gibbering idiot this morning. All the diaries we've read tell about the extreme gradients climbing up to the pass. I had nightmares that it would be like yesterday - terrifying scrambles up rocky paths, clinging onto metal chains perched above precipice gorges, but although it was exceptionally steep - 1:2 in places - the paths were much better today. If anyone reading this is afraid of doing the St Bernard’s Pass bit, don’t be. It was much better than yesterday – honest!
We sorted more items from our packs into carry bags for Rayna to take to the Hospice in the bus so that our loads wouldn’t be too heavy. We started at 680m climbing straight up above the La Douay railway line, passing wooden shrines representing the 16 Stations of the Cross. For obvious reasons we didn’t complain about dragging our packs and ourselves up the hill! For the next 24kms we climbed and climbed, sometimes on gravel paths, wide moraine-stone heaps and landslide piles; sometimes on forest tracks, across rickety bridges spanning raging rivers and waterfalls. The scenery was spectacular and the closer we got to the higher peaks, the thicker the snow was on the sides on the path and in the gulleys. Marion took strain today, the steepness of the terrain getting to her. At one stage stopped and said to me “Sil – I am stuffed!”
We passed the old St Bernard Hospice a few hundred metres below the new one and stood on the hard snow singing. The road was only cleared of snow and opened on 14th June and huge, solid banks of snow still lie on either side. We had downloaded bits of other pilgrim’s diaries on this section and every one spoke of huge changes in the weather as they neared the top – ‘swirling mists” “driving rain” “huge drop in temperature” “strong gusty wind”. We were blessed with clear calm skies and bright sunshine the whole way. There was a lot of water rushing down with many small waterfalls and rivers where we could collect water for our bottles. The wild flowers here are all tiny – indicative of the altitude – with white star daisies (Edelweiss?) blue gentians, yellow milkwort and many others all attracting scores of butterflies.
The path we were on disappeared under a high bank of solid snow carved out of melting water gushing underneath making it treacherous to continue so we clambered up onto the road and the last 4km was on the twisting tarred road, hairpin bends - rising from 2000m to 2475m at the top. When I saw the Hospice complex I blew my whistle to let the others know that we had arrived. I was SO proud of us - especially of Marion - that I felt quite emotional. We had made it! For months we have been talking about crossing the Alps – like Hannibal and his elephants, like Napoleon and his 40 000 troops – and here we were – triumphant at the top of the pass with no back up, no porters, no mules to carry us up!! Val will tell you about our reception at the Hospice.
We met three pilgrims in the Hospice dining room – a German fellow covered in tattoos who was sleeping in the same dorm as us and who will be walking to Ivrea, and a couple from Brazil who are walking to Rome. Val went to have a shower and came back rather ashen faced. "There is a MAN in our bathroom!" she said, "And ... he is covered in tattoos. Just hope he isn't sleeping in our room." With that in walked Bernd - the German fellow we'd met at dinner. And yep, he was sleeping in the room with us, but we knew that 5 against 1 were good odds so we tucked our precious bags next to our pillows and crashed.

Marion: I knew that it would be a difficult day for me because of the height that we would have to climb - I always have trouble breathing going up extremely steep climbs. I knew that I would have to dig deep – “BUT” I never realised just how deep I needed to dig. I found the 11 ½ hours extremely gruelling and a few times thought I could not go on. Even though it was such a difficult day for me the scenery was magnificent and I am so proud of myself for making it to the Hospice. I am ever so thankful for such wonderful friends that pulled me through the day.
At first it felt a bit strange to me that we would be sharing our dorm with a stranger – “a male”. By the time I went to bed I was so tired that it never bothered me at all.

Val: On the first day I lost my hat and stick, and Kathy, ever the girl guide fashioned one out of a branch. I was so thankful for that stick yesterday and Rayna kindly gave me hers today. However just a third of the way into our journey we came across a row of sticks outside a cottage, made from old broom sticks, bamboo and metal piping with an honesty box! We purchased a few sticks and continued on our Trek as the Swiss do using two sticks.
We overdosed on magnificent scenery today, mountains that would make "Table Mountain" envious. I do hope that the Swiss appreciate their beautiful country. Everywhere is picture perfect and you can't help sometimes feeling that you are in a scene from the "Stepford Wives".
After 11plus hours we arrived at Gr St Bernard Hospice, dead on our feet and somewhat dehydrated as we had to rely on streams for water as it was impossible to carry sufficient for the day. Before we knew what was happening we were ushered down the stairs to "Evening Mass" and the four of us were swaying ready to collapse. Silvia sat down on a chair and put her head on her arms as she was feeling faint. People looked at her with understanding, thinking that she was overcome with emotion. We got the giggles and also had to close our eyes and bend our heads! We were able to excuse ourselves within half an hour and were given a welcome cup of tea. Then the bell rang and we had to go to dinner.

Kathy: Passed some very crosspatch, mean looking bulls with nasty horns on the way up - and they didn't look like they were very happy with us in their turf. These
big bulls are sometimes used as fighting bulls (2 bulls fighting each other) and look a little like buffaloes. Anyway - there was Sil in a red shirt shouting “Ole! Ole!” Kathy shouting “Voetsak”, all of us squealing like girls, and Val at the ready with her pepper spray. The bulls beautifully adorned with wide leather neckstraps and cow/bull bells, decided to move off a little and we passed safely.
On the way out of Orsieres, Silvia had her whole fist sucked by a calf so we decided to say hello too. Also messed around in the snow singing:
♫ We feel good, like we knew we would.
We feel good, like good pilgrims should♫

We had a great giggle that lifted our spirits.

And where will they be staying??

They are staying in a 2nd Floor backpackers - cabins in a camping site - a Gite - the Gr St Bernard Hospice - three Youth Hostels - on a farm - in an old castle - in a convent with the nuns - in a monastery - nine B&B's - two apartments and three small hotels.

Introducing the Via Francigena Five

Here begins the Journey
Now begins the Day.
With one step upon the Road
Our Souls are on the Way.

The Via Francigena Five” will soon be on their way.



WHERE ARE THEY GOING?
To Switzerland & Italy to walk the Via Francigena – the old pilgrimage road to Rome.


They start walking on Lake Geneva on Friday 16th June and will walk ± 210kms - 4 days crossing the Swiss Alps at the Grand St Bernard Pass (where the famous dogs are kept) and then 4 days in the Italian Alps, through the Aosta Valley as far as Ivrea.

On 24th June they will get a train from Ivrea to Parma and then walk for two days, over the Cisa Pass as far as Pontremoli. Another train will take them to Lucca in the north of Tuscany and from there they will walk ± 360kms to Rome, arriving at St Peter’s Square on Thursday 13th July.


♦ They will carry everything they need for 28 days of walking in their backpacks (± 6kgs)
♦ They will wear boots and/or hiking sandals depending on cross country paths or tarred roads.
♦ The longest distance will be ± 32kms and the shortest 14kms.
♦ They will stay in pensions, backpackers, a Gité, youth hostels, B&Bs, monasteries, a convent, camp site dorm, a castle, on a farm, small hotels and apartments. (Most of these were booked in advance.)
♦ Their journey begins on 14th June and they return on Monday 17th July.

You can send them messages/encouragement/questions on this Blogger.